This isn’t merely a random assortment of five watches. Following a whirlwind week of releases at Watches and Wonders, a plethora of new iterations of existing models graced the stage. Consequently, we found ourselves drawn to revisit the older generations of these models to delve into their enduring appeal and varying market values. As you’ll soon discover, some remain highly coveted, while others offer enticing opportunities for acquisition on the secondary market. Without further ado, let’s explore five remarkable replica watches that experienced a resurgence in attention this past week.
Tudor Heritage Black Bay Ref. 79220N
Let’s commence with the inaugural Tudor Black Bay, known as the Heritage Black Bay, which made its debut back in 2012. This week, we witnessed the unveiling of the latest iteration – the 41mm METAS-certified Black Bay with a sleek black bezel. In my opinion, it stands out as Tudor’s flagship release of the year, eschewing overt vintage aesthetics for a more contemporary allure. Revisiting the first-generation model, we encounter a delightful blend of both worlds. Encased within its 41mm stainless steel frame, measuring 12.7mm in thickness and 50mm in length, lies a design that exudes timeless elegance.
The stainless steel bezel, adorned with a black insert boasting silver numerals and accented by a vibrant red triangle beneath the luminescent pip, adds a touch of color to the ensemble. It’s the black dial, however, that truly evokes vintage charm, with its gold-toned minute track, indices, hands, and text – a nod to the iconic gilt-style dials of yesteryears. Yet, subtle nuances set this first-generation variant apart. Notably, the presence of the copy Tudor rose at 12 o’clock and the curved, vintage-inspired “Self-Winding” text at 6 o’clock, affectionately earning it the moniker “Smiley Face.” Nestled within the case beats the reliable automatic ETA 2824-2 movement, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of 38 hours.
For enthusiasts fortunate enough to secure the Heritage Black Bay on its bracelet, they’ll notice the absence of faux rivets – a detail beloved by many Black Bay aficionados. It’s worth noting that this black-bezel version, designated as reference 79220N, enjoyed a brief production run of just five months, rendering it a rare and highly sought-after variant. Asking prices typically range from just under €4K to approximately €5.5K for this first-generation Black Bay.
Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 116710LN
Our next selection, the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116710LN, represents a landmark in the brand’s storied history. Introduced in 2007, it marked the advent of the first stainless steel GMT-Master II outfitted with a ceramic bezel insert – a design cue that would go on to inspire subsequent releases, including this year’s stainless steel ref. 126710GRNR with its striking black and gray bezel. Remaining in production until 2019, the replica Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116710LN holds the distinction of being the final model featuring a monochromatic bezel – a fact that has fueled speculation regarding the elusive “Blueberry” GMT-Master II.
This iteration also heralded the introduction of the 40mm “Super Case,” boasting dimensions of 12mm in thickness, 48mm in length, and a lug width of 20mm. Its glossy black Maxi dial, adorned with generously proportioned hour markers, finds harmony with the black Cerachrom bezel insert, featuring prominent numerals denoting the 24-hour scale. Two subtle yet defining touches of green – the “GMT-Master II” insignia on the lower portion of the dial and the 24-hour hand – serve as tasteful accents against the backdrop of black.
Nestled within the case beats fake Rolex’s in-house caliber 3186, a self-winding movement operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of 50 hours. Despite its vintage, the GMT-Master II ref. 116710LN continues to command attention, with prices starting at just under €10K and scaling upwards to €15K.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5164A-001
Approximately two months ago, news circulated regarding Patek Philippe’s decision to discontinue several models in 2024, including the Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164A. A mainstay since 2011, the stainless steel Aquanaut Travel Time left enthusiasts speculating about the future direction of the revered Swiss marque.
In response, Patek Philippe unveiled a new white gold iteration (ref. 5164G) at Watches and Wonders, featuring a captivating light blue dial and complementary rubber strap – a design motif reminiscent of the denim straps adorning the new Nautilus Chronograph ref. 5980G and World Time Date ref. 5330G.
The now-discontinued ref. 5164A boasts a 40.8mm stainless steel case, measuring 10.8mm in thickness and 46.6mm in length, with a lug width of 21mm. Setting it apart from its peers are the two pushers adorning the left side, facilitating adjustments to the local time – a design element that beautifully counterbalances the crown guards on the opposite side. The gradient black-to-gray dial, coupled with the black rubber strap featuring the characteristic Aquanaut pattern, exudes understated sophistication.
Powering this watch is Patek Philippe’s caliber 324 S C FUS, a self-winding movement operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of 45 hours. Equipped with a user-friendly travel-time function and a subsidiary pointer date at 6 o’clock, the ref. 5164A epitomizes the pinnacle of horological craftsmanship. Pre-owned examples are commanding prices ranging from approximately €65K to €90K – a testament to its enduring appeal and scarcity in the market.
Cartier Tortue LM “Collection Privee” Ref. 2498E
Between 1998 and 2008, Cartier embarked on a journey to resurrect historical models from its illustrious archives as part of the esteemed Collection Privee. Among them, the Cartier Tortue LM ref. 2498E, available during the early 2000s, captivated enthusiasts with its timeless elegance and refined aesthetics. Fast forward to this year’s replica watches and Wonders, where Cartier revisited this same aesthetic with the introduction of the new Tortue Hours/Minutes models, igniting nostalgia and admiration among aficionados.
The early 2000s variant boasts an 18K pink gold tonneau-shaped case, measuring 43mm in length, 34mm in width, and 10mm in thickness, accentuated by a pink gold crown adorned with a mesmerizing blue sapphire. Complementing the exquisite case is a meticulously crafted silvered guilloche dial, bearing the iconic “Cartier Paris” logo and a series of black Roman numerals arranged along the outer railway track. A central rose motif adorns the hand-finished dial, harmonizing with the striking blued hands – a hallmark of Cartier’s distinguished craftsmanship.
Underpinning this watch is the manual-winding caliber 437 MC, based on the Piaget 430P ebauche – a beautifully decorated movement visible through the sapphire display case back, adorned with Cartier’s signature “double C” motif. Traditional techniques such as beveling and perlage further enhance the allure of the movement, showcasing the brand’s commitment to excellence.
Paired with a dark brown leather strap featuring a pink gold deployant clasp, the Cartier Tortue LM ref. 2498E epitomizes understated luxury and refinement. While examples from the Collection Privee are scarce on the pre-owned market, their acquisition commands substantial prices, with listings currently hovering around €16K – an investment that affords one the opportunity to own a piece of Cartier’s illustrious heritage.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down Lumen Ref. 405.034
Our journey through horological excellence culminates with the breathtaking A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down Lumen ref. 405.034, introduced in 2018. A synthesis of the best elements from the two new 25th-anniversary Datograph limited editions, this clone watch exudes unparalleled sophistication and technical prowess.
The Datograph Up/Down Lumen shares its foundation with the blue-dial 25th-anniversary model, with the addition of the “Lumen” execution – a feature reminiscent of the Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” and its mesmerizing luminous accents. Encased within its 41mm platinum frame, measuring 13.4mm in thickness, 48.3mm in length, and boasting a lug width of 20mm, lies a design engineered to captivate.
A smoked sapphire dial grants a tantalizing glimpse into the intricate inner workings of the movement, while luminous coatings adorn the time indications, the oversized date aperture, the chronograph functions, and the power reserve indicator – ensuring optimal legibility day or night. Beneath the surface, Lange’s manual-winding caliber L951.7 orchestrates a symphony of horological mastery, comprising 454 meticulously crafted components, operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of 60 hours.
The caliber boasts Lange’s signature oversized date display at 12 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock – testament to the brand’s unwavering commitment to precision and refinement. With meticulous finishing and attention to detail, the Datograph Up/Down Lumen exemplifies the pinnacle of haute horlogerie – a masterpiece worthy of admiration and acclaim.